Designer brands are working to combat the luxury slowdown. They have realigned their strategies to target older consumers with higher incomes who are typically less affected by economic downturns and spending more than pre-pandemic levels. This is causing the sector to become even more exclusive. Hermès, for example, is eschewing catering to the masses and doubling down on its scarcity-drivenproduct and sales model. Cracking the ‘Hermès game’ has become a hotly debated topic on TikTok and
nd Reddit threads, as users dissect ways to become a potential Birkin candidate. Discussions revolve around how to dress in-store and ways for consumers to pledge allegiance to the brand by buying ‘quota bags’, which allow the brand to drive up prices for its prestigious products.
Edited’s data backs up a marketwide trend of labels shifting away from catering to aspirational consumers, as average prices for handbags in the US have grown 4 percent, year over year (YoY), while apparel and footwear are 9 percent more expensive than they were last year.
This top-heavy approach to luxury has led to a renaissance of mid-tier contemporary American brands, with Tory Burch, Coach, Ralph Lauren and Lacoste and more gaining social media clout with a younger audience through celebrity backing – and offering status and prestige without the hefty price tag.
In what the internet has dubbed the Toryssance, appetite for Tory Burch is evident, as sell outs of new arrivals increased 5 percent, YoY, in 2023, while the brand’s replenishment rate has grown from 25 percent to 33 percent, with consumers responding well to modernized iterations of its iconic 2006 Reba ballet flat. Strong demand for Coach helped parent company Tapestry achieve $1.2 billion in revenue for Q2 2023 and 2.5 million North American customers, half of whom were Gen Z and Millennials. This was mainly down to the success of its sustainable Coachtopia sub-brand, which boasted a 23 percent sell-out rate and 31 percent replenishment rate last year.
As luxury becomes increasingly out of reach, aesthetics grounded in middle-class sensibilities are taking center stage.
Here are the top three trends driving this movement.
Grocery runs, but make it fashion
From Bottega Veneta’s staged paparazzi campaign to Balenciaga’s branded travel coffee cups, fashion has been idealizing the ordinary, mundane daily activities of middle-class consumers, such as refueling, grabbing coffee and going grocery shopping. This elevated reflection of day-to-day life has sparked the emergence of the off-duty uniform, dubbed “Errandcore”. Retailers can capture this aesthetic by offering comfortable, practical pieces in their assortments, such as loungewear, which has experienced a revival of 4 percent YoY new product arrivals, accompanied by candid campaign imagery.
Recommendations for retailers
Tote bags are the standout piece for this narrative, buoyed by the sold-out success of The Row’s Margaux bag, which has been likened to a modern-day Birkin. Leather totes were a go-to silhouette at FW24 shows and should be prominent in future accessories buys. Brands looking to reduce costs can explore nylon options, which have grown 42 percent YoY.
Stanley Cup mania has transformed drink bottles into fashion accessories and proven how low-price everyday objects can become viral sensations. Brands looking to diversify their assortments with entry-level items can consider releasing branded water bottles and leverage influencer marketing to help gain exposure.
Consider bundling key items and basics in multi-packs to offer value as consumers are tightening budgets. While this strategy is most popular with underwear and socks, brands can group button-downs, chinos, cargo shirts and polos to help speed up sales and mitigate the risk of leftover stock at the end of the season.
American actor Jeremy Allen White has become the poster boy for Errandcore, due to his highly publicized farmers market trips. Re-create this aesthetic for campaign imagery, with models grocery shopping and buying flowers to refresh promotions for casualwear and basics.
Following British Prime Minister Rishi Sunak wearing Adidas Sambas on Instagram Live, the cult style is no longer considered the sneaker of the people. Instead, promote sneakers similar to the Adidas Spezial and Nike Cortez, which are the hottest picks to be the next It shoe, following rising Pinterest searches and celebrity endorsements. Additionally, the Cortez is $10 cheaper than the Samba, making it more appealing to cost-conscious shoppers.
The workwear takeover
The turbulent economic backdrop has made Stealth Wealth and Old Money dressing seem unattainable, lending to workwear’s rise in fashion. Ironically, luxury brands will be encouraging their high-earning clients to cosplay as middle class, despite pricing that demographic out of the market with rising costs. In W24 collections, Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Prada have embraced the Carhartt Bro aesthetic, and have leaned into designing workwear jackets. At the same time, Timberland’s increased presence on therunway has boosted its popularity, with collaborations at Louis Vuitton and Wales Bonner, while Loewe has showcased lace-up worker boots.
Recommendations for retailers
Carhartt’s hero products serve as key inspiration, offering commerciality and broad demographic appeal. Evoke this aesthetic by adapting utilitarian design details into FW24 outerwear. Four front patch pockets, stone-washing and contrast stitching will be popular features, alongside trims such as rivets and poppers.
Abercrombie & Fitch’s iteration of the Detroit jacket noted majority SKUs selling out within five days of launching online. Its success, combined with the prominence of outerwear with zipped contrast collars on the runway, suggests it will remain an investment piece that retailers can back with confidence.
Target price-conscious consumers with chore jackets as an entry-price-point opportunity, alongside workwear staples, giving consumers options across budgets. Uniqlo has put this strategy in place, matching the price of Dickies’ unlined Eisenhower jacket with a similar twill zip-up blouson for $79.90, alongside a hooded jacket at $99.90 and a utility vest at $49.90.
Given the importance of durability within this trend, denim will emerge as a hero category. Buyers should consider ranging carpenter silhouettes, with side pockets, loop detailing and double-knee shapes.
While bright hues are synonymous with workwear and bold blue hues have had success, retailers should keep these to a minimum when building out ranges. Neutral and earthy tones are responsible for driving sales, with black items accounting for 23 percent, green items 16 percent, and brown items 14 percent of the majority selling out across the apparel category.
The cowboy comeback
In another example of trends evolving to become more inclusive and accessible, the Horse Girl aesthetic, championed by Bella Hadid and synonymous with traditional wealth, has been overshadowed by Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter era. Her latest album reshapes country music and serves as a cultural statement, furthering the ongoing reclamation of the genre and fashion by BIPOC and queer communities, a movement that has been gaining momentum in recent years. Retailers have eagerly offered Western inspired fashion aligning with the album drop and festival season. Yet, with the right assortment, this latest wave promises a lasting impact beyond Coachella.
Recommendations for retailers
Retailers with remaining open-to-buy budget should optimize their summer assortments, with denim shirts (+119 percent YoY), woven checked shirts (27 percent YoY) and denim jackets (+23 percent YoY). The popularity of long, cotton prairie skirts with tiered or gathered waistbands is also on the rise, already up by 64 percent compared with last year.
In addition to clothing, accessories including studded belts, cowboy hats and boots are expected to be in high demand, particularly during the festival season, and should be displayed prominently in advertising.
For trend-led brands seeking a more directional approach, incorporate rose embroidery across shirts, and denim alongside polka dot dresses and grandpa-inspired knitwear. Western will also get the boho treatment, exemplified by Chemena Kamali’s debut collection for Chloé, making fringing acontinued unique selling point across leather, outerwear and accessories
The underpinning patriotic theme of Western aesthetics provides opportunities for retailers to promote Americana elements for tablescaping (decorating tables elaborately for celebrative events) and hosting stories, in line with July 4th and Thanksgiving. Pinterest has predicted Western Gothic as a core homeware theme, which retailers can capture in assortments by promoting dark or weathered wood across kitchen, dining and living room furnishings, and rawhide accents.
Looking ahead, retailers can evolve the aesthetic by introducing loose maxi dresses and fringed handbags at the beginning of the season before transitioning to heavy chocolate brown suede outerwear for late fall drops. The material has already gained traction at fast-fashion brands, with arrivals registering a 13 percent YoY increase.
This story first appeared in the June 2024 issue of Inside Retail US magazine.