On February 19, the Canadian apparel chain Aritzia announced that it had acquired the Los Angeles-born apparel and lifestyle brand Fred Segal, including rights to the intellectual property and trademarks. Additionally, the Canadian retailers announced that they have leased 8100 Melrose Avenue – Fred Segal’s original flagship destination. The move marks another major step in Aritzia’s long-term growth strategy for expansion in the US market, where it currently operates 72 locations
ons.
In a statement, Jennifer Wong, Aritzia’s chief executive officer, commented, “Fred Segal has long been a cultural touchstone in Los Angeles – a place where creativity, community and style converge. We are honored to steward and evolve this iconic brand for a new generation with the elevated experience and ‘everyday luxury’ that define Aritzia.”
This plan includes restoring Fred Segal’s iconic Melrose location, which was destroyed during a recent storm, as well as creating a new “experiential destination that reflects the creative spirit that has defined both brands.
“The space will bring together curated products and immersive experiences that transcend traditional retail while also serving as a dynamic lifestyle hub. Our focus now is on revitalizing the Fred Segal brand across product and retail, with the goal of reestablishing it as a true destination,” Aritzia stated.
Experts express hesitancy around the Fred Segal acquisition
Fred Segal is not Aritzia’s only acquisition in recent years.
Previously, in June 2021, Aritzia acquired a 75 per cent stake in CYC Design Corporation, the parent company of the Reigning Champ brand, in a deal valued at about 63 million Canadian dollars. The acquisition eventually helped boost Aritzia’s presence in menswear. Aritzia purchased the remaining 25 per cent of CYC in May 2023.
However, some retail experts are already questioning whether or not Aritzia made the right call by specifically acquiring Fred Segal, a retail name that has fallen since its heyday in the late 90s/early 2000s.
As Neil Saunders, analyst and managing director at GlobalData, told Inside Retail, “Fred Segal was once a powerhouse of fashion, especially in its native Los Angeles. Sadly, those glory days have long since faded, and the brand is now regarded more with fondness than commercial admiration.”
“However, the affection in which Fred Segal is held, along with a sliver of nostalgia, provides the basis for rekindling the business – and it is one of the reasons Aritzia has purchased the brand and its associated intellectual property rights.”
Christine Russo, the principal of Retail Creative and Consulting Agency (RCCA), also agreed that Fred Segal’s former “cool kid” reputation has fallen from grace.
“What’s clear is that this further solidifies how heated the intellectual market has become,” she said. “Heritage names with embedded cultural equity are increasingly strategic assets, and now we’re seeing new types of buyers step into that arena.”
With all that being said, Saunders is fairly optimistic about Aritzia’s ability to resuscitate Fred Segal’s energy and use the brand’s heritage to its advantage.
“As its results show, Aritzia is a master of brand building, storytelling and product development and production,” said Saunders.
“It is betting that it can use all these skills to revive Fred Segal and make it commercially sound. And, rightly so, as a lot of Fred Segal’s past failure came down to weak execution – such as a relative lack of exclusive product – rather than a tarnished brand.”
For Aritzia, Saunders also noted that Fred Segal provides a new vehicle for growth in the US market, specifically, given the brand’s notable foundation in the Los Angeles retail scene.
“If Aritzia keeps the brand true to its heritage, such a move would allow the development of a bigger menswear business, as the core Aritzia is womenswear-focused.
“In many ways, Aritzia does not need Fred Segal. Its own organic growth and its headroom for expansion are both significant. However, this is a positive as it suggests the move is more strategic and future-focused rather than being driven by the need to bolster short-term numbers.”
How Aritzia can lean into Fred Segal’s historic locations and ‘retailtainment’ legacy
Marie Driscoll, a chartered financial analyst and a professor at Parsons, The New School, and the Fashion Institute of Technology, pointed out that the retail ecosystem needs physical locations for fashion discovery, socializing, and community building, along with a fairy dusting of ‘retailtainment’ to engage today’s consumer.
“Too few retailers provide this, and Fred Segal is a storied name that did just that and in the process created LA/Melrose cool that was transported to multiple geographies and was iconic,” said Driscoll.
“In acquiring the Fred Segal name and original location, Aritzia has a headstart via name recognition and authenticity in developing a retail format for new design talent, a place to gather, dwell and engage with like-minded individuals.”
She noted that curiosity and nostalgia will drive early traffic to Fred Segal stores under Aritzia’s guidance, but sustaining interest amid rapidly changing consumer mindsets will be the feat the Canadian apparel retailer takes on.
“Bravo to Aritzia for this opportunistic acquisition. Hope it doesn’t detract from management’s focus on the real growth vehicle, which can be the case.“
Further reading: Why Aritzia’s new 25,000sqft flagship signals a strong era for the brand