Levi’s Lot No 1, located within the Tokyo flagship store in Harajuku, offers customers a rare opportunity to work closely with master tailors in designing custom denim pieces. From choosing the perfect fabric to crafting personalised details, every step of the process is tailored to the individual. Inside Retail sat down with two of Levi’s master tailors in Tokyo – Mio Yamamoto and Masayuki Den – to explore what it means to be at the forefront of this program. Inside Retail: Can you star
u start by telling me a little bit about what you do, and the difference between being a master tailor and a regular tailor?
Mio Yamamoto: As for the main work of the Master Tailor, it involves going to the Lot No 1 room in Levi’s Harajuku store in Japan, handling orders for Levi’s Lot No 1, and taking care of customer fittings and production.
Lot No 1 is currently only available for order at the Harajuku store in Japan. As for the main tailor shops in Japan, they started in 2012, and there are now seven locations across the country.
As for the work at the tailor shops, it involves overseeing the seven locations, sharing information across all stores as new menu options are added daily, and making adjustments or sharing updates as needed. This is done through weekly meetings with tailors from all the stores.
Masayuki Den: And we also hire and train other tailors as well. There are around 12 or 13 members on the tailor team. Harajuku has the most, with five members, while the Fukuoka store has two. This year, about 10 more will be added, bringing the total to over 20, nearly 30.
The first requirement is that they graduate from a fashion vocational school, meaning they’ve learned about making clothes. It’s also preferable if they have experience in sales.
This year, we started recruiting new graduates from vocational schools for the first time, and that’s been put into action.
IR: Can you tell us a little bit about what drew you to Levi’s?
MY: First, I joined the company in 2013. At that time, the concept of tailor shops started in Japan, and for the first time, there was an opportunity to customise Levi’s with craftsmanship directly by Levi’s artisans. That’s how I got involved.
MD: For me, it’s a similar story. I originally worked in sales, but I was also learning about making things. I went to school for it, and when I thought about the kind of work I wanted to do, I joined Levi’s tailor shop to put my skills to use. I’ve loved Levi’s since I was in middle school, so it was a natural fit for me.
IR: What’s the most memorable custom piece you’ve worked on?
MY: At Lot No 1, customers always come in with unique, bespoke ideas and a lot of thought behind them. Many of them want to recreate something they wore when they were younger or something that brings the same level of attachment and sentiment. Those kinds of projects are particularly memorable.
MD: In terms of customisation, there was a piece we did for an artist where the entire design was patchwork, connecting pieces to represent their family. That one stands out the most.
IR: What are some of the most popular custom requests from customers in Japan?
MY: The most common request is embroidery. For Japanese customers, those who have been coming to us for a while also often ask for resizing, as adjusting the fit to their body is in high demand. Another recent trend, especially at the Harajuku store, is transforming jackets into kimono-style garments or changing the shape of the clothing itself. There’s been an increasing demand for these types of alterations in recent years.
MD: We’ve had customers say, ‘You can decide how to do it,’ and we take that as an opportunity to be creative.
IR: What is the most difficult part about your job as a master tailor?
MD: It’s not so much the technical difficulty of the work, but rather the challenge of aligning with the customer’s vision and translating that into the final product. The most important part is the process of understanding and fine-tuning their ideas during the consultation.
IR: What is the most rewarding part about working on this program?MY: In this program, you can witness the entire process of product creation – from the initial customer consultation and visualisation of their needs, through the manufacturing process, to final assembly. I particularly enjoy watching this journey unfold, especially the moment when customers see their finished product for the first time.
That moment is truly special.
IR: What does it mean to you to be part of this program?
MD: The ability to do something like this is significant. Creating a one-of-a-kind piece based on a customer’s order feels like a unique project or job. It’s rare to have work where you personally consult with the customer, design and create the piece, and then hand it to them – all handled by one person.
It’s such a valuable experience, and yes, it’s incredibly fulfilling work. I feel a strong sense of purpose in what I do.
MY: Yes, I feel the same way.
Even though the ready-made products we sell every day already come in a wide variety of designs, many customers still choose to create something custom-made to suit themselves. I find great meaning in helping bring out their individuality and creating something truly unique for them.
Further reading: Will new fabric technologies help Levi’s win over Asian customers?