What is the X-factor that separates the great retailers of the world – both past, present, and future – from their competitors, and captures the imagination of a universal audience? Is it their brand, product, offering, people, heritage, complex simplicity, timing, alacrity of thought and process, aptitude for risk, forgiveness for errors, or simply some luck along the way? All of the above? Through the aperture on this lens, my attention turns to Uniqlo. The story begins in March 1949
arch 1949, when the company Ogori Shōji was founded in Ube, Yamaguchi. On June 2, 1984, it opened a unisex casual wear store in Fukuro-machi, Naka-ku, Hiroshima, under the name “Unique Clothing Warehouse”. Initially, the brand was going to be registered as a contraction of “unique clothing”.
The Japanese brand’s journey from a single men’s tailoring shop in Tokyo to global casualwear giant offers a wealth of lessons. Its success is built on a foundation of clear brand identity, relentless innovation, strong company culture, social responsibility and digital savvy.
The power of a clear brand promise
At the heart of Uniqlo’s success lies a clear brand promise: to provide high-quality, performance-enhanced, universal basic casualwear at affordable prices.
This simple yet powerful mission statement drives every aspect of the company’s operations, from product development to customer service, and it is lived and breathed by everyone on the team, no matter their role.
The Japanese doctrines of Bushido, which teaches the philosophy of loyalty and honor, and Shitsuke, which is discipline, heavily influence life at Uniqlo.
Japanese people are proud of what they do and demonstrate self-discipline that is driven by inner strength. From an early age, they are taught to value 頑張る (effort) and 我慢 (endurance) to achieve their goals, knowing that hard work trumps talent.
And here we have the very heartbeat of Uniqlo.
Culture and leadership: The Uniqlo Way
Uniqlo’s ethos is deeply rooted in its strong company culture and visionary leadership. The brand’s focus on teamwork, customer experience, and continuous improvement is reflected in every aspect of its operations, from its flat organizational structure to its intensive employee training programs.
One of Uniqlo’s most striking cultural practices is its morning routine, where staff recite “The Behaviours” – a series of phrases that define customer service standards. While this level of standardization might seem extreme, it ensures consistency across all customer touchpoints and contributes to a unified brand experience globally. It also lives out a form of the philosophy of a Japanese master business.
The art of retail detail
It is often the little things in retail that make the biggest difference to the customer.
One of Uniqlo’s most notable characteristics is its obsessive attention to detail. This is evident in every aspect of its operations, from the precise folding of clothes in stores to the rigorous quality control in its supply chain. Again, it goes to the doctrine of Bushido: honor and duty to the guest.
Innovation as a driving force
Japan also has a long history of manufacturing products using microorganisms. As countries around the world seek new ways of invigorating economic growth and productivity, Japan’s modern infrastructure, technological knowledge and highly educated labor force have created a hotspot for innovation.
Uniqlo’s founder, Tadashi Yanai, famously stated, “Uniqlo is not a fashion company, it’s a technology company.”
This mindset has led to groundbreaking fabric innovations like HeatTech and AIRism, which have become cornerstones of the brand’s success.
Uniqlo’s innovative spirit extends beyond product development. The company has also pioneered unique marketing approaches, such as its ‘Uniqlock’ digital campaign, which won numerous advertising awards and helped build global brand awareness.
Beyond retail: Creating social impact
Uniqlo’s commitment to social responsibility also sets it apart from many of its competitors. From collaborations with cultural institutions like MoMA to partnerships with UNHCR to support refugees, the company demonstrates that retail can be a force for good in the world.
Uniqlo’s ‘All-Product Recycling Initiative’ is a prime example of how retailers can contribute to sustainability efforts. The program collects used Uniqlo garments and either recycles them into new products or distributes them to refugees and disaster victims. In fiscal year 2020 alone, 30.29 million items were donated to sixty-five countries and regions through this initiative.
Embracing the digital future
As the retail landscape continues to evolve, Uniqlo is making strides in digital transformation. The company’s Ariake Project aims to create a seamless link between Fast Retailing – Uniqlo’s parent company – and its partner factories, warehouses, and stores worldwide, using advanced information technology.
Uniqlo’s digital strategy extends to its customer-facing operations as well. The company aims to expand its online sales from the current 9.9 per cent of total global sales to 30 per cent by launching more online services. This focus on e-commerce and mobile shopping reflects the changing habits of consumers worldwide.
Collaborations and partnerships
Uniqlo’s commitment to enhancing lifestyles extends beyond clothing, as evidenced by its innovative partnerships with cultural institutions and artists. Its collaboration with MoMA is a standout, ensuring free access to the museum every Friday evening and creating the SPRZ UT T-shirt range, which brings art and culture to the masses.
The brand’s UT line features graphic designs from fine art, music and other culture, collaborating with an impressive roster of artists and designers. From Jason Polan’s quirky illustrations to Keith Haring’s iconic street art, Jean-Michel Basquiat’s culturally rich works, François Morellet’s abstract compositions, Sol LeWitt’s conceptual art, Josef Albers’ color theory, Gordon Walters’ Indigenous-inspired geometric abstractions, and Max Bill’s Bauhaus-influenced designs, Uniqlo has successfully merged fashion with art.
These partnerships not only elevate Uniqlo’s brand but also democratize art, making it accessible and wearable for everyone, further reinforcing the company’s mission to provide innovative, affordable, and culturally significant apparel.
Global expansion with local sensitivity
While Uniqlo has achieved impressive global growth, it has faced challenges in adapting to different markets. The company has learned valuable lessons about the importance of tailoring its approach to local preferences and body types.
Of course, we live in a changing context where issues like the environment, fair wages and treatment of workers, climate change and animal welfare carry great importance in the ‘social register’ of retailers.
Uniqlo now has a repair-and-reuse program in place, for example, and it offers clothing recycling to consumers to help address end-of-life textile waste. It uses a few lower-impact materials and reduces water use in some spots along its supply chain.
It also has targets to reduce emissions in its supply chain, which have been approved by the Science Based Targets Initiative (SBTi), an organization that provides “companies with a clearly defined path to reducing emissions in line with the Paris Agreement goals”. Currently, Uniqlo does not report its progress towards meeting these targets, which has drawn scrutiny.
Uniqlo has also attracted criticism for the fair work policies in some of its supply channel processes over the years; however, it appears to be addressing these.
The brand gets deserved accolades for banning the use of fur, angora, shearling, and karakul, and for committing to eliminating other animal products, like mohair. It also has a formal animal welfare policy aligned with Five Freedoms and uses some recycled down.
If imitation is the highest form of flattery, then Uniqlo has its admirers, with counterfeit and copycat products circulating the globe also presenting ongoing issues for brand management.
The path forward for retail
The success of Uniqlo offers valuable insights for retail CEOs looking to thrive in an increasingly competitive global market. By focusing on a clear brand promise, prioritizing innovation, fostering a strong company culture, living the values of the firm, making a positive social impact, and being open to digital transformation, retailers can position themselves for long-term success.
At time of writing, Fast Retailing had upped its full-year profit expectations after another record performance for the fashion giant. During the nine months to May 31 this year, Fast Retailing reported revenue of ¥2.37 trillion (US$16 billion), up 10.4 per cent, year on year, while operating profit was also up 21.5 per cent, at ¥401.8 billion (US$2.7 billion).
Along with 3700 shops and 30,000 employees, it is certainly a testament to the values, virtue and vision of Uniqlo.