The plus-size fashion market has grown substantially in recent years, with a bevy of new players entering the market and smaller, more devoted brands opening the sector to new styles and opportunities. According to Research and Markets, the sector was worth US$193.9 billion globally in 2021, and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 4.3 per cent until 2030. But one of the major players in the Australian plus-size industry, City Chic, last week announced it is underg
undergoing a strategic review to return the business to profitable growth. Its share price has tumbled approximately 90 per cent in the past year, from a high of A$2.62 last August, to a low of 38 cents per share currently.
The business announced that the review would focus on simplifying its logistics, moving to a new international freight forwarder, creating a more ‘agile’ supply chain, and refocusing on ‘high value’ products moving forward.
City Chic chief executive Phil Ryan said the business has weathered a difficult trading period, and is now focused on strengthening its balance sheet, improving margin and reducing its overall costs.
Inside Retail contacted City Chic for comment.
Failed to evolve
The changes outlined by City Chic may bring it back into the black, but many customers have been frustrated with the business’ practices for some time. And, with a host of new players in the market, they have been finding their clothing elsewhere.
Body positivity influencer, plus-size model and co-founder of the Body Positive Expo Lacey-Jade Christie told Inside Retail that City Chic was once one of the only businesses in the plus-sized fashion game – but that they have become less relevant over time.
“There are options – many of which are more stylish,” Christie said.
“City Chic tends to recycle the same patterns, the same fabrics and the same designs year after year. A lot of people have gotten sick of shopping at City Chic for a wedding and [expecting] another plus-sized person wearing the same dress.
“They’ve just failed to evolve.”
According to Christie, the broader plus-sized community has several pain points with City Chic.
The fact that its marketing is often focused more on ‘curvy’ women, rather than plus-sized women, and the decision to stop carrying its largest sizes across its physical stores, often feel like a slap in the face to the larger women in the community, Christie said.
“Basically, what they’ve said is: if you’re that fat, we don’t want you in our stores to try clothes on, so buy online instead,” Christie said.
“However, they have a terrible returns policy, [so] people often have to go to stores to return their clothes anyway.”
These issues have culminated in the #boycottcitychic hashtag on TikTok, where plus-size customers air their grievances and suggest alternatives to the business.
Christie said that the plus-sized community owes a lot to City Chic, which for a long time was one of the only retailers catering to them, but that there are some major areas for improvement.
She argued that normalising its sizing guide with the rest of the industry would make it easier for shoppers to buy City Chic’s clothes online, and that some major work needs to be done on the business’ clothing design.
However, the key changes Christie would like to see is a willingness to accept feedback from the plus-size community, as well as a willingness to be more involved in the community.
A market growing at both ends
Lükbook founder Katrina Van De Ven told Inside Retail that the plus-size market in Australia is worth around A$8 billion per year, and is growing at “twice the rate of straight-size fashion”.
“There’s a much broader trend of traditionally straight-size brands moving into the plus-size space, which has enabled the plus-size customer to become more astute in what they’re looking for,” Van De Ven said.
“They don’t want to be treated as a niche or a tokenistic afterthought.”
And, while there are new brands launching in the space, there are also more customers. According to Van De Ven, plus sized women now make up two-thirds of all women in Australia.
“Whereas 20 years ago plus-size customers had to kind of take what they could get, we are now able to stand up and have a bit more power in what we buy,” Van De Ven said.
“We can say: this is what I want, this is what I need, and I’m looking for fashion that resonates with me on an aesthetic level, as well as an ethical and values level.
“I think that’s real progress.”